A credit score is a statistical appraisal of your creditworthiness. It’s a swift and uncomplicated means for banks to assess whether or not you can pay back loans.

There are several factors that go into calculating your credit score, including:

1. How you pay your bills

2. How extensive is your credit history

3. What’s your credit limit on credit cards and how much of it you use

4. What type of credit you have (is it is mixture of auto loans, credit cards and mortgages or all credit cards? 

5. How much credit and what types have you applied for recently

What is a good credit score? In general, a good credit score is somewhere between 650 to720. An excellent credit score is above 720. Those are the numbers you need to strive for to get the best interest rates.

How to Boost Your Credit Score

Your first step toward improving your credit score is paying your bills on time. Your bill payment history, particularly your recent history, accounts for a percentage of your credit score. So paying bills on time can be a big boost in improving your credit score.

Next, outline your credit cards with the highest balances and compare to the available credit on the card. Pay those first. For example, if you own a credit card with a  $1,000 balance and $2,000 available credit and another card with a $3,000 balance and $20,000 available credit, you’d want to pay down the card with the $1,000 balance first.

This is because your credit fico score is based upon how much credit you use as a fraction of the credit available to you.

Preferably, your credit balances should be no more than 40% of the credit available to you.

Finally, don’t close out credit card accounts. It’s advantageous to leave the accounts open and not utilize them than to close them out.  This shows responsibility to creditors on how you manage your credit wisely.  Based upon the credit bureaus statistical appraisal, it drives your credit score up!

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Discover credit score improvement tactics creditors just dont want you to know. Check out The Credit Secrets Bible today.

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What is the best way to improve credit score? This article will not only answer that question, but offer tips on how to improve your credit score as fast as possible.

Side note: This article assumes that you already know your credit score. If not, you can purchase (unlike credit reports, credit scores don’t come free) it from either MyFico or Equifax. Why these two? Because they are the only ones that offer the true FICO score that is most widely used by lenders.

The biggest chunk of your credit score (65%) is based on two main factors:

1. Payment History (35%): This is the most important factor. Paying your bills on time raises your score. Late payments hurt your score often by significant margins.

2. Amount of debt (30%): This is the second most important factor in determining your credit score. Your debt to credit ratio plays a large part here; you want to keep it low.

Of the two factors above, the only one you have some control of is the No.2. Only time can take care of the No.1.

So, the first thing you need to do is to start paying your bills on time. Eventually, any late payments will sink into the background and decrease in importance. Also to note here is that new adverse information is most damaging to your score.

The fastest way to improve your credit score is by reducing your debt to credit ratio.  Your total debt should be between 10% and 30%. And yes, you do need to keep some debt in order to show regular and timely payments.

Your debt to credit ratio can be reduced by one of several methods:

1. Paying down your credit cards. This is not the easiest or fastest route as funds may not be readily available in the short term. For many, paying more than minimum amount due without using the credit card(s) might work, albeit slowly.
 
2. Requesting credit limit increases: This is a quicker option, but depending on your credit history, your creditors may decline to increase your limit. Not only that, but they will often run your credit, which will generate a hard inquiry (which causes points lose).

3. A commonly used method is to open a savings or cash deposit account (CD) for $500 to $1000 (the more the better if you can). You then borrow an equal amount against it. You can take the same money you borrowed from and open another account with another bank and repeat the process. There is no limit as to how many times you can do this, just make sure you can afford the payments.

4. A better way to improve credit score is to have new accounts added to your file. You want to be fairly sure that you will get approved, so go for pre-approved credit cards; you know, like the ones that come in junk mail. The downside is that the limits offered are often small and they usually come with other fees such as application fees, annual fees etc.

5. Now the best method. A very practical and easy method for raising your credit limit and reduce your debt to credit ratio is to get a merchandize card. Some merchandize cards can start you with a handsome limit ($2000 to $5000 and sometimes more) with no credit check or annual fees. As long as they report to the bureaus, these cards can help improve your credit score almost immediately. The challenge here is finding out which cards report to the bureaus, offer best rates, and are not scam.

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The credit reporting system as it stands is inherently corrupt and flawed. It is also unfair and prone to errors. Abusive practices continue, despite the Fair and Accurate Credit Transaction Act (FACTA) that was meant to protect consumers.

The credit system was never created to help you, but to make money for the lenders. It is driven by one motive, profit.

Imagine this. Two individuals need drugs. One of them is sick and the other one is addict just looking for a “fix”. The former needs drugs to stay alive; the other uses them to ruin it (most of the time affecting many others).

Now, let’s say both have accumulated debts that they simply cannot pay. Both will equally get their credit files damaged. Is that unfair or what?

Did you know that it took intense pressure from congress and interest groups for Fair Isaac (the creators of the FICO credit scoring system) to disclose its credit scoring model? You were not supposed to know something that has such a heavy impact on the quality of your life.

Lenders and the bureaus don’t care about you. Lenders have one thing on their minds; to find as many excuses possible to charge you more for loans and credit cards. Meanwhile the bureaus make a great deal money selling the lenders information about you.

Some of the tactics lenders use so as to hit you with higher interests rates include “universal default” clauses and failing to report your true credit limit(s).

Universal default is simply means that a lender can increase your interest rates when you get late on another non-related item (even if you’re on time on all other payments!).

Now, by increasing your interests rates (sometimes doubling or tripling it), the creditor has just made it difficult for you to keep your payments up, or worse, made you likely to default or declare bankruptcy. How brilliant is that?

Some creditors fail to report your limit. Others report your balance as limit so as to keep your balance to limit ratio high, which brings down your score. In turn this keeps your credit rating at “sub-prime” level, which means high interest rates.

Another nasty practice that continues unabated, despite being against the law, is re-aging of derogatory accounts. This is mainly done by collectors, whereby they re-set the date of your last transaction to a later date.

Re-aging extends it beyond the seven year statute of limitations (after which it should cease to show on your report except in certain special circumstances).

Credit bureaus also allow debt collectors to place hard enquiries (the type dings your score) on your report. Cases have been reported where deleted accounts were re-inserted into credit reports, without the consumer’s knowledge (which is against the law).

What’s even worse is when paid-off accounts get reported as delinquent many years later, such that the consumer may have long forgotten the respective account.

What should you, the consumer, do? The answer is knowledge. An educated consumer is the bureaus’ and lenders worst nightmare. Armed with the right knowledge, you can use the law and lenders’ (including debt collectors) to your advantage.

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Discover how you can legally make creditors, credit bureaus and collectors clean up your credit file by turning the tables in your favor. Check out The Credit Secrets Bible now.

When fixing your credit report, certain mistakes could upset all your efforts or, worse, lower your credit score. Following is a list of some common and not-so-common credit repair mistakes you should avoid:

1. Disputing open, active accounts: Every account you dispute with credit bureaus, whether good or bad, often gets removed from your report until verified. Open accounts give you history; therefore by disputing these could lower your score. Not good. Not only that, you also potentially reduce your credit history, which also accounts for part of your score.

2. Making late payments while on your credit repair path will negate your efforts. If you know that you are not in position to start paying your bills on time, don’t start credit repair just yet. It will not be worth the effort. Late payments are devastating to your score.

3. Don’t close open accounts. One of the biggest myths out there is that closing accounts is good for your credit report. Not quite. What creditors look for is how well you can handle debt. As No.1 above, old open accounts help build your credit history and shows stability as well as ability to handle debt responsibly.
 
4. Avoid “pay nothing now” offers, often offered by auto repair and furniture shops. This type of credit lowers your score, as it indicates potential financial troubles. These types of credit often lower your score.

5. Avoid obtaining new credit accounts. New credit is considered less favorably than old. Too many new credit accounts indicate greater risk. Also, every credit enquiry dings your score. For people with bad credit and need to re-establish good credit, secured credit may be the way to go. Just make sure that the creditor will not run your credit before extending it to you, and that your payments will be reported.

6. Don’t consolidate. Contrary to what you may have heard, debt consolidation is not such a good thing. For one, if you consolidate all your credit card debts into one credit card, that credit card will likely have a high utilization rate (balance to limit ratio), which is not good. Secondly, if you use a consolidator, you will be required to close your open accounts, which will end your history as well as lower your score. Thirdly, most creditors frown upon it, as it indicates inability to manage credit.

7. 100 word statements are best avoided. There is a space on your credit report offered for you to explain your situation, or make comments. This can be a two-edged sword as it can bring to attention something that might otherwise have been missed, possibly to your disadvantage. Use this space only if feel you absolutely must (seek advice of a reputable credit counselor).

8. Disputing too many entries the same time: In a rush to clear bad entries from their report, many people rush and dispute one too many entries with credit bureaus. This generally raises a red flag. If you have lots of adverse entries, pick three to four to start. The latest entries are most damaging, so it is wise in most cases to start there.

9. Avoid canned dispute letters: Copying credit dispute letters off the internet is a dead give away that your dispute may not be legitimate, or that you’re using credit repair techniques. Use them as templates if you must, but write in your own words.

10. Patience, patience: Another mistake many people make is to follow one dispute with another too soon. Again the problem here is rushing. This resets time for the disputes to 45 days, up from 30. Obviously, you don’t want this. Allow at least 45-60 days between disputes.

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Fix your credit: tips and strategies banks, bureaus and collectors don’t want you to know. Check out Credit Secrets now.

Unless you’re a Hollywood rags-to-riches story, have won the lottery or inherited a fortune, buying a nice car, home, or other big-ticket item is hard without a good credit score. Just what is a good credit score?

Though what is considered a good credit score may differ with each lender, certain ranges are considered favorable to most lenders.

Also, your rating (another term for score) will often differ with each credit reporting bureau. This is partly because creditors do not always report to all the bureaus and partly because two of the bureaus have their own scoring criteria.

Since all bureaus might give you a different credit score, one should err on the safer side and go with the score that most lenders use.

The credit score that most lenders us is the FICO score. Only two companies offer this score, the originator of this system Fair Isaac Corporation and Equifax credit bureau. The websites to obtain your FICO score from MyFico and Equifax respectively.

Now, let’s take look at the different credit score ranges in order to have a better understanding of what constitutes a good score (or poor one for that matter).

FICO scores range from 300 (the lowest) to 850 (considered perfect). The higher your score, the more you’re considered less of a debt risk, and therefore worthy of the friendliest terms (read low interests rates and fees).

As with almost everything else, most people fall within the median range when it comes to credit ratings. The smallest number falls on either poor or perfect. Let’s break it down farther:

720 and above: This is considered great credit, and qualifies you for the best loans and interest rates. Lenders will be fighting over you, which is a good thing.

700 – 719: This is considered excellent credit. You might be able to get very good loans and interest rates, but there’s still room for improvement.

660 – 699: Good credit. You might qualify for good rates, depending on the lender and the strength of rest of your report. Still, you will probably not get the best interest rates.

620 – 659: Considered weak or border-line credit. The rest of your file needs to be very strong to get reasonable rates. Your interest rates will be higher and terms a little more stringent.

Below 620: This is considered poor credit. You may still get loans, but they will cost you. Most lenders will only lend to you if you have a cosigner. Terms might be very stringent for you.

You’ve probably heard the saying “There’s no free lunch”. May be not some University of Illinois students.  Seeing an ad free a free sandwich at Subway on a certain day, a bunch of them responded (free hoagie, mmm…).

Free hoagie there was, okay. But you had to sign an application for a credit card…

Read the full story

Bad credit problem? No matter how bad your situation, there is hope. This article offers simple but effective steps towards quick credit repair.

Now, how fast you can fix your credit is relative. No two situations are alike, and there is no one size fits all. Your individual financial situation as well as your personal determination and efforts will all come to play. And, to be honest, credit repair does not work for everyone.

First, you need to know what is on your credit report. Get your credit report from all the three major credit reporting bureaus.

While you are at it, avoid free reports and, where possible, also avoid obtaining them online. I have explained the reason for this in other posts and will not repeat it here. If you already have a recent all-three-bureau report from, say, a mortgage company, you can use that.

You should also get your credit score from either FICO or Equifax (Only Equifax offers the real FICO among credit bureaus).

Why FICO score? Simple: Because it is the score that most lenders use. You want to be on the same page with most lenders.

The quickest way to fix your credit and begin to enjoy lower interest rates as well as qualify for loans and credit cards is by raising your score. Once your score is raised to a reasonable degree, you will be able to obtain more credit which will help improve your credit even more. 

Now, let’s start with the obvious. Begin to pay your bills on time. This factor alone accounts for the biggest chunk of your score. When you are late on a payment, you loose, big time. Do everything you can to avoid this, if it means robbing Peter to pay Paul.

Next, read through your report. Check for mistakes. There is a chance (some surveys put as one in three) of having erroneous information on your report. Look for inaccuracies in dates, names, balances, credit types, and any missing accounts that you pay on time.

You should also be on the lookout for duplicate reporting (that is, the same account getting reported more than once).

Once you’ve established that indeed errors do exist, you have three options. One option is to write to the bureau(s) whose report is in error and explain your position. If you have documents to prove your point the better; enclose them.

The second option is to utilize a rapid rescorer. Rapid rescorers are agencies that work as median between creditors and credit bureaus. As you may have guessed, their work is to speed up the rescoring process. Reputable rapid rescorers do not work directly with consumers; ask your creditor or mortgage company for this option.

The third option is to alert the creditor(s) about the error(s). This is much quicker than contacting the bureaus on your own, as creditors can correct errors at the push of a button.

You can also raise your credit score fast simply by reducing your debt. But, do not close any open accounts. Just pay down you debt to about 30 per cent of your balance, and you will see an almost instant raise score.

Alternatively, you could ask your bank raise your limit. You could also transfer money between accounts, so that none is at or near maximum.

One strategy that credit repair companies use is to dispute entries on reports. Once an entry has been disputed, it is must be taken off until verified. This is a strategy you can utilize yourself and avoid paying someone a hefty fee to do it for you.

When disputing credit report information, take care not to dispute accounts in good standing, or accounts that are open. You need those accounts to keep your credit history, and it also helps your score.

To repeat, unless an open account is a real thorn on your side, don’t close it, even if you’ve had late payments on it.

How does disputing credit accounts work? Well, it works on the premise that old archived accounts just might not be verified, or the creditor might find it not worth verifying.

But, disputing credit accounts may or may not work. For one, credit bureaus are well aware of this tactic, and may dismiss your request for verification on grounds of being “frivolous”.

Secondly, some creditors are very diligent, even vindictive, and will verify accounts at a speed that might surprise you. Believe me; I once saw an account for a very small amount get verified, and it was more than five years old!

The dispute strategy is worth a try, all the same.

If your objective is to reduce – or get out of debt – you could start by paying off some of them. Some experts recommend paying off the account(s) with the highest interest rate(s). This might not necessarily be the best way to go. Why?

Well, the credit card with the highest interest rate could also be the one with the biggest balance, as was once my case. If you start by paying that one of, you might not have enough to cover the rest of your debt. Also, if problems arise somewhere in the middle all your hard work could come to naught.

Perhaps a better way is to pay off the account with the lowest balance. This has a double positive effect. One debt is out of the way, and you are more motivated from the “win”.

But perhaps the best way for quick credit repair, bar none, is negotiating with your creditors and/or debt collectors. Not only can a creditor or collector remove negative items from your credit report, they can also give you breaks on some fees.

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Discover rights that you can use to your advantage and begin to clean up your credit file. Plus tips and tricks creditors and credit bureaus don’t want you to know. Check out the Credit Secrets Bible today!

Acknowledging that you do have bad credit is the first step towards repair. You have already taken that step, or you wouldn’t be reading this. Here are a few steps toward bad credit rating repair:

1. The biggest chunk of your credit score (or rating) depends on your payment history. This alone accounts for 35%. From here onwards, determine to pay your bills on time, if it means juggling them (using one account to pay another). In a few months, you will see an improvement.

2. If you don’t have open credit accounts, whether through bankruptcy or accounts getting closed, you need to open new accounts as soon as you possibly can. The easiest credit to get is secured type. This means depositing a sum of money ($500 or more), and then using that as collateral to get a line of credit. Start using it and pay back in full. You also take out a cash advance on that account and open another new account (known as piggy-backing). Just be sure that you can make the payments to avoid more credit problems.

3. Keep your balances low. 30% of your score is calculated on this. Keep your balances at 30% of your limit. Just by doing this you could see an almost immediate raise in your score. Just paying your bills on time (see No.1 above) and keeping your balances low could give your credit score a big boost.

4. Do NOT close your open accounts, even if you have had late payments. Why? Because those payments are helping you establish history. Some questionable credit repair companies will often dispute (or advice you to do so) all your accounts, including the good ones. This is a mistake. Once you dispute an account, it comes off your file until verified. Good accounts have less chance of getting verified. You could end with bad accounts getting back and good ones staying off! Length of credit history accounts for 15% of your score – another reason for keeping open accounts.

5. Avoid opening too many new accounts. Too many new accounts will increase the number of recent enquiries on your report, which dings your credit. Also, opening too many new credit accounts indicates higher risk.

6. Reduce your debt to manageable levels. Some credit “experts” advice first paying off high interest accounts. This is not necessarily the best way to go. More recent (less than two years old) bad accounts hurt your credit most. Deal with the more recent bad accounts first. And pay off the balances starting from the smallest and working upwards. Why? Well, if you start with the bigger balances, you might have problems somewhere in the middle, therefore ruining all your hard work.

7. Negotiate for removal of bad information. Yes, you can negotiate removal of negative items from your credit file as part of the deal. If the creditor or debt collector is reluctant is reluctant to remove your negative information altogether, you can request “re-aging” which simply means making the current month your first payment month, therefore not showing late payments. This subject could fill a book on its own.

Find out how to negotiate for removal of bad credit information plus credit repair tricks and strategies. Check out Credit Repair Bible now.

Before taking any action on how you will tackle your bad credit problem, it is a good thing to consider the various options available to you.

Your situation is unique. Credit repair does not work for all. Sorry, but this is just the truth. Whoever tells you otherwise would be lying. Here are some options to consider:

1. Do nothing: Yes, this could be the best option for someone deeply in debt, who has an already strained budget, and just does not want to take the bankruptcy route. I did this for years, and though collectors were driving me nuts, I had to just brave it out until my situation improved. I actually had to stop picking up phone calls from unfamiliar numbers, which caused me to also lose some opportunities that might have helped.

Caveat: This option is for someone who is “judgment proof”. This is someone who is a liability even to sue as the chance of collecting is next to zero.

2. Find ways to earn extra cash. Yes, there are ways to earn some extra cash for those who look around and are not scared to do some work, or don’t consider some things as beneath them. For instance, women who have a room to spare in their homes can run a child daycare. Or they can take in overnight, children of parents who have to work at night. If you’re good with computers you can teach, for a fee, non-computer-literate people learn how to use a computer, or offer computer maintenance services. The possibilities are endless.

3. Sell an asset: My sister had to sell off her beloved shiny almost new SUV and buy a used Sedan. She almost cried (I think she did in private), but the option was best for her under the circumstances. Today, she is glad she did. If she had not, she would still be deeply in debt, and with an old SUV. Weigh your options. Selling off your home may be hard to take, but it is better than to get cash back (if you’re lucky) from foreclosure.

4. Home Equity: For older home owners, you can use your home equity to pay off some (or all) of your most crippling debts. Again, weigh your options carefully as you don’t want to lose your home (and perhaps still be in debt).

5. Debt Consolidation: A professional debt consolidator could help you by negotiating with your creditors on your behalf, for more comfortable. A good debt consolidator will also help you come up with a budget that allows a bearable or comfortable lifestyle.

Note: Debt consolidation is considered more or less like bankruptcy by some creditors. The difference is that it does not wreak havoc on your credit for ten years. Also, you will be required to close your revolving accounts – which will hurt your credit initially – as well as make a pledge not to establish new lines of credit until your debts are paid off.

Warning: Some debt consolidation companies are scam.

6. Negotiate: You can negotiate with your creditors and/or debt collectors for lower monthly payments or a lower lump sum. Some creditors will be happy to be receiving something than nothing at all. This is perhaps the best option as you can also negotiate non-reporting or removal of adverse information as part of the bargain. Note that lower monthly payments might not be indefinite. Most creditors, especially of open/active accounts, will insist on a specific time span, after which the payments will return to normal.

Also be aware that if any part of your debt is written off, it may be considered income and therefore taxable.

This option is best for those whose credit situation is not already in the intensive care unit, so to speak.

7. Chapter 7 Bankruptcy: Filing for bankruptcy is an option, however a hard one to take. A chapter 7 bankruptcy allows you to wipe out your debt and start over. It is also the most devastating to your credit file. This requires you to give up most your assets.

Since October 2005, it is much more difficult (almost impossible) to file for a Chapter 7 Bankruptcy as congress passed what I consider draconian and anti-consumer laws, in the name of The Bankruptcy Abuse Prevention Act. More on this in a future post.

8. Chapter 13 Bankruptcy: This is also referred to as the wage-earners bankruptcy. It allows you to pay back what you can over time (usually 3 to 5 years), while you get to keep most or your assets.

Discover insider techniques and strategies for repairing your credit. Check out: Credit Repair Bible today.

Fact: Credit bureaus don’t give a damn about you. Surprised? Well, let me explain.

Credit bureaus are businesses. They are in business to make money. They care for their clients, who pay fees that keep them bureaus in business. And you are not one of those clients.

Credit reporting agencies (another term for the darned bureaus), make the bulk of their money by collecting your information (name, address etc.), and selling it to lenders and other interest parties.

You, the consumer, are somewhere at the bottom of their interests (if anywhere at all). When they deal with you, they lose money. Every time you ask for a free credit report, every time you dispute an entry on your report, they lose money by having to pay someone to look into your file (or to pull it out for that matter).

If you attempt to get a credit report online, you’ll be coerced into accepting an arbitration agreement that is – you guessed it – totally against you. I say “coerced” because it is a do or else thing. That is, accept or you don’t get your report.

Among the items you’re supposed to agree upon is that (1) that any disputes shall be settled by an arbitrator (so you can’t sue their bums in court) (2) that you will avail yourself to a hearing venue to be decided by the arbitrator (if you live in North Dakota you may be required to travel to Florida and (3) that their liability is limited to cost of the report (so you could end up getting 15 bucks for your troubles).

In my opinion, arbitration clauses should be outlawed, or at least the consumer should be protected from abuse of such clauses by corporates. After all, bankruptcy abuse laws were introduced, ostensibly, to curtail abuse by consumers. Maybe we too should get “arbitration clauses abuse” laws or something like that.

By the way, I think bankruptcy laws as they stand are anti-consumer, but that’s a post for another day.

At the time of writing this post, if you tried to find out the cost of purchasing your credit report at the bureau websites you wouldn’t be able to find it. How convenient.
 
You see, the reason, I suppose, is that they want you to get your free annual report, as it gives them an extra 15 days to investigate a dispute if you get a free report, as opposed to 30 days if you purchase one. And, once you get that free report, you have to wait a full year to get another.

Side note: Experian and TransUnion do have 3 Bureau reports that you can purchase online, but you’ll be subjected to their one-sided agreement. Experian provides a form that you can use to fax in your request, but this too has a clause that binds you to “additional terms and conditions provided in the service materials that I will receive, including limitations on Equifax’s liability” (partial quote).

All the three bureaus redirect you to annualcreditreport.com website to obtain your free annual report. Once there you will, of course, be required to accept the arbitration agreement as well as other conditions.

The credit bureaus have also been known to change addresses frequently. It is believed that this is in an effort to throw consumers off, so as not to have to deal with too many disputes.

The credit bureaus don’t want you to know your rights. Try looking for thorn-on-their-side words such as “verification” “statute of limitations” and “validation” and you will come up with very scanty information if any.

An educated consumer is what the bureaus really love to hate. And you, my friend, are about to become just that. Keep reading this blog.